Turn off the valve, turn on the water and check for leaks. Thread the nut onto the valve, then hold the valve steady with adjustable pliers while you tighten the nut with a wrench. Slide the compression nut onto the pipe with the threads facing out and slip on the compression ring. Most have a 1/2-inch compression connection for the supply pipe and a 3/8-inch compression fitting for the ice maker tubing. You should be able to find such a valve at a plumbing supply outlet or online. De-burr the edges of the pipe with a file so you can install a new valve that has an extra port to which a water hammer arrestor is connected. If the valve is soldered onto the pipe, cut it off. Cut the compression ring and nut off the pipe with a hacksaw. Unscrew the nut holding the valve to the supply pipe and remove the valve. Put a bucket under the valve and open it all the way to let water drain. Once the tube is disconnected, move the refrigerator completely out of the way. Turn off the shut-off valve and disconnect the copper tube that goes to the ice maker by loosening the compression nut that holds it with a wrench. Smart Wi-Fi Enabled InstaView™ Door-in-Door® Counter-Depth Refrigerator, Model # LSXC22396S features an ice maker, and an easier way to install a water hammer arrestor that doesn't involve in-wall plumbing is to turn off the water to the refrigerator, unplug it and pull it far enough from the wall to get behind it. Plumbers stop the banging by installing a water hammer arrestor in the pipe near the valve from which the noise is emanating. When you suddenly alter its flow by closing a valve, it sends shock waves through the pipes, causing a banging sound and potentially weakening joints. It happens because the water in your pipes is pressurized and incompressible. The thumping sound that you are referring to is what is known as water hammer and it is a potentially serious condition that can affect plumbing pipes in any part of your home.
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